{"id":17460,"date":"2018-10-28T17:00:16","date_gmt":"2018-10-28T16:00:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/leregardlibre.com\/?p=17460"},"modified":"2022-09-04T10:32:35","modified_gmt":"2022-09-04T08:32:35","slug":"micro-recit-dun-grand-voyage-intime-en-coree","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/leregardlibre.com\/de\/reise\/micro-recit-dun-grand-voyage-intime-en-coree\/","title":{"rendered":"Mikrobericht \u00fcber eine gro\u00dfe, intime Reise nach Korea"},"content":{"rendered":"

Le Regard Libre Nr. 43 - H\u00e9l\u00e8ne Lavoyer<\/em><\/p>\n

\u00abDas ist eine ziemlich ungew\u00f6hnliche Wahl\u00bb, \u00abEin erstaunliches Reiseziel\u00bb, \u00abWas gibt es dort?\u00bb, \u00abWarum einen Monat allein nach S\u00fcdkorea gehen?\u00bb, \u00abS\u00fcd- oder Nordkorea?\u00bb. Eine kleine Anthologie von Fragen, die bei einer Abreise nach S\u00fcdkorea gestellt werden, und die aufzeigen, wie wenig wir \u00fcber dieses Land wissen, in dem sich alles immer in zwei Extreme zu erstrecken scheint.<\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\u00abAnyoung Haseyo\u00bb<\/h3>\n

La Cor\u00e9e du Sud est un pays d\u2019une centaine de milliers de kilom\u00e8tres carr\u00e9 environ. Un peu moins de trois fois la superficie de la Suisse que je quittais pour un mois. A mon arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 l\u2019a\u00e9roport d\u2019Incheon \u2013 cinqui\u00e8me plus grand du monde et construit sur une \u00eele de la mer Jaune \u2013 m\u2019attendait d\u00e9j\u00e0, panneau brandi, celui que je finis par appeler \u00abAbba\u00bb, \u00abPapa\u00bb en Cor\u00e9en.<\/p>\n

L\u2019air lourd et humide que j\u2019humais \u00e0 la sortie de l\u2019avion et que j\u2019esp\u00e9rais d\u00e9j\u00e0 voir s\u2019all\u00e9ger marquait d\u00e9j\u00e0 la diff\u00e9rence entre \u00abchez moi\u00bb et \u00abici\u00bb. Apr\u00e8s que je fus assise trois quarts d\u2019heure dans un car luxueux, de gigantesques immeubles et tout un petit monde s\u2019affairant dans les rues de S\u00e9oul se pr\u00e9sentaient \u00e0 mon regard curieux, captant tout ce qui lui \u00e9tait possible de ces premi\u00e8res impressions.<\/p>\n

Les premiers pas que je fis d\u00e9finirent la promenade solitaire qui guiderait ensuite bien souvent mes divagations et r\u00eaveries de fin de journ\u00e9e \u00e0 S\u00e9oul. Au pied de l\u2019immeuble de vingt-trois \u00e9tages, c\u2019\u00e9tait petitesse et solitude, mais un tel sentiment de s\u00e9curit\u00e9 et de confiance me portait que c\u2019est aveugl\u00e9ment que j\u2019entamai cette d\u00e9ambulation entre les tours semblables \u00e0 d\u2019immenses batteries plant\u00e9es dans le sol.<\/p>\n

Guinsa<\/h3>\n

Mon voyage avait \u00e9t\u00e9 pens\u00e9, et \u00e0 peine avais-je eu le temps de passer deux jours \u00e0 S\u00e9oul que je partais, le matin du troisi\u00e8me jour, sur la route qui m\u2019emm\u00e8nerait \u00e0 l\u2019un des endroits les plus beaux, les plus sereins et heureux que j\u2019aurai fr\u00e9quent\u00e9s jusqu\u2019ici. Perdu et isol\u00e9, le temple de Guinsa semblait\u00a0m\u2019attendre depuis toujours, aussi patient que la terre avant l\u2019aurore.<\/p>\n

Aux fronti\u00e8res d\u2019un parc national et \u00e0 un quart d\u2019heure de la petite ville de Danyang, Guinsa contemple silencieusement la vie, juch\u00e9 sur les hauteurs du mont Sobaeksan, \u00e0 environ mille m\u00e8tres d\u2019altitude et juste sous le pic de Yeonhwaji. A peine \u00e9tais-je sortie du car avec quelques autres personnes que je me tenais au pied de la pente escarp\u00e9e menant aux premiers b\u00e2timents du temple, peints de couleurs \u00e9clatantes et inconnues et orn\u00e9s de fresques ou de fleurs de lotus.<\/p>\n

Un r\u00e9cit mystique entier pourrait \u00eatre \u00e9crit sur ce passage \u00e0 Guinsa, lieu de d\u00e9votion, de calme, de paix, de courtoisie et o\u00f9 m\u00eame les pas lanc\u00e9s devant soi au hasard dirigent vers un sens auquel on n\u2019avait pas pens\u00e9, que l\u2019on n\u2019avait pu imaginer. Etrangement, c\u2019est dans ce lieu retir\u00e9, dans lequel la monotonie semble \u00e0 son paroxysme \u2013\u00a0et jusque dans les repas, tous compos\u00e9s de riz, l\u00e9gumes et soupe\u00a0\u2013 que le sentiment de libert\u00e9 s\u2019insinue le plus.<\/p>\n

Gyeongju<\/h3>\n

A l\u2019issue des quelques jours que je passai \u00e0 Guinsa, me d\u00e9couvrant une joie int\u00e9rieure sans failles ni fond, mon c\u0153ur se brisa \u00e0 l\u2019id\u00e9e de quitter les lieux. Mais la curiosit\u00e9 et la n\u00e9cessit\u00e9 de passer \u00e0 une autre dimension de mon voyage furent assez fortes pour que je ne d\u00e9faille pas une fois arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 Gyeongju. L\u2019ancienne capitale de Cor\u00e9e me r\u00e9servait elle aussi de belles surprises.<\/p>\n

Ville touristique s\u2019il en est, Gyeongju et sa population \u2013\u00a0presque plus caucasienne que cor\u00e9enne\u00a0\u2013 m\u2019accueillirent tout d\u2019abord comme l\u2019une de ces touristes \u00abde base\u00bb dont le seul objectif est de rapporter de beaux clich\u00e9s de lieux c\u00e9l\u00e8bres ou pris\u00e9s. Mais alors que je me sentais plus incomprise que jamais, mes h\u00f4tes \u00e0 la GODO Guesthouse prirent le temps de me conna\u00eetre, de partager des morceaux de leurs vies et de rire innocemment de mes particularit\u00e9s europ\u00e9ennes.<\/p>\n

Du temple de Bulguksa aux tombes datant du royaume de Silla (ndlr: l\u2019un des trois royaumes de Cor\u00e9e), Gyeongju est une ville magnifique, plus facile\u00a0\u00e0 vivre et aux b\u00e2timents plus petits que l\u2019immense S\u00e9oul, quoique l\u2019air soit dans les deux villes \u00e0 peu pr\u00e8s irrespirable \u00e0 cause d\u2019un trafic inimaginable o\u00f9 les taxis tournent sans arr\u00eat en rond \u00e0 l\u2019aff\u00fbt de clients. Cependant, ses habitants semblaient s\u2019int\u00e9grer dans une d\u00e9marche plus commerciale concernant les touristes qu\u2019\u00e0 S\u00e9oul.<\/p>\n

S\u00e9oul et un d\u00e9part<\/h3>\n

La transition de Guinsa, temple de la d\u00e9votion, \u00e0 Gyeongju, celui de la consommation, m\u2019avait affect\u00e9e, mais elle se fit rapidement, tant les lumi\u00e8res des concerts et des rues m\u2019emplissaient de spontan\u00e9it\u00e9. Apr\u00e8s sept jours dans la ville dont deux pass\u00e9s \u00e0 me soigner d\u2019un \u00abgimbap\u00bb mal dig\u00e9r\u00e9, je reprenais la route tranquille \u00e0 bord d\u2019un car qui nous emm\u00e8neraient, les autres passagers et moi-m\u00eame, \u00e0 S\u00e9oul.<\/p>\n

Dix jours pass\u00e8rent, au cours desquels je visitai de magnifiques mus\u00e9es tels que le Leeum (ndlr: mus\u00e9e d\u2019art de Samsung, o\u00f9 d\u2019inimaginables poteries et peintures sont offertes au regard) ou le Mus\u00e9e National de Cor\u00e9e, toujours entour\u00e9e d\u2019autres touristes et de Cor\u00e9ens en habits traditionnels, lou\u00e9s pour le temps de quelques clich\u00e9s. L\u00e0, je m\u2019habituai \u00e0 la fa\u00e7on d\u2019\u00eatre cor\u00e9enne comme je l\u2019ai per\u00e7ue; g\u00e9n\u00e9reuse en rires, avare de cris, tr\u00e8s coquette et soign\u00e9e, r\u00e9serv\u00e9e au possible.<\/p>\n

Et puis, je n\u2019ai pas appris \u00e0 dire \u00abAu revoir\u00bb. Il m\u2019a sembl\u00e9 que l\u2019on pouvait utiliser la m\u00eame expression que pour dire \u00abBonjour\u00bb, mais je n\u2019ai pas voulu savoir. Apr\u00e8s trois semaines, dont douze jours pass\u00e9s \u00e0 S\u00e9oul, j\u2019osai enfin poser une bise sur la joue de mes parents cor\u00e9ens, dont la gentillesse et la pr\u00e9venance m\u2019avaient touch\u00e9e droit au c\u0153ur. De ce voyage solitaire en Cor\u00e9e intime, je retiendrai que l\u2019imagination la plus joyeuse ne peut souvent pas figurer la beaut\u00e9 et la valeur d\u2019une r\u00e9alit\u00e9 que l\u2019on accueille sans attentes.<\/p>\n

Schreiben Sie dem Autor : helene.lavoyer@leregardlibre.com<\/a><\/em><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Le Regard Libre N\u00b0 43\u00a0\u2013 H\u00e9l\u00e8ne Lavoyer \u00abC\u2019est un choix plut\u00f4t inhabituel!\u00bb, \u00abTiens, \u00e9tonnante destination\u2026\u00bb, \u00abMais qu\u2019y a-t-il l\u00e0-bas?\u00bb, \u00abPourquoi…<\/p>","protected":false},"author":326,"featured_media":510154,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2597],"tags":[61522,644340163,36722,412552,120342,644340160,644340158,644340162,644340164],"class_list":["post-17460","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-voyage","tag-asie","tag-bulguksa","tag-coree","tag-coree-du-nord","tag-coree-du-sud","tag-guinsa","tag-seoul","tag-silla","tag-yeonhwaji"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nMicro-r\u00e9cit d\u2019un grand voyage intime en Cor\u00e9e<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, 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