{"id":12451,"date":"2017-10-27T17:56:20","date_gmt":"2017-10-27T16:56:20","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/leregardlibre.com\/?p=12451"},"modified":"2022-09-04T10:13:29","modified_gmt":"2022-09-04T08:13:29","slug":"perou-2017-lac-titicaca-et-cuzco","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/leregardlibre.com\/en\/travel\/perou-2017-lac-titicaca-et-cuzco\/","title":{"rendered":"Peru 2017: Lake Titicaca and Cuzco"},"content":{"rendered":"

Le Regard Libre N\u00b0 22 - Marina De Toro<\/em><\/p>\n

\u00abMy last trip, in the form of a story and photographs. Episode 2\/2\u00bb<\/p>\n

After three days\u00ab trekking in the Colca Canyon, we headed for Puno, a city situated at an altitude of 3800 metres on the shores of the famous Lake Titicaca. We made the journey by night bus, and when we arrived in Puno early in the morning, the cold and lack of air took us by surprise. We spent the whole day on this immense lake, straddling Peru (60%) and Bolivia (40%). Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world, and is three times as long as Lake Geneva. On this immense expanse of water, we visited two islands: a small group of artificial islets called the \u00bbUros\" islands, and the natural island of Taquile. It takes around two hours by boat to get from one island to the next, which is a testament to the lake's surface area, given that we only crossed a small part of it.<\/p>\n

The inhabitants of one of the Uros islands welcomed us with song and dance, dressed in the region's traditional garb. They live on artificial islets made from totora, a reed-like plant that grows in the lake and is used not only for the construction of all infrastructures, but also considered a fundamental economic element of the islands. Before the arrival of mass tourism, \u00abUros\u00bb was the name of the people who originally lived on these floating islands, but they disappeared in the middle of the 20th century.th<\/sup> century to make way for the Aymaras (people of Lake Titicaca).<\/p>\n

D\u00e9sormais, les habitants ont choisi de vivre sur ces \u00eeles artificielles pour continuer la tradition, mais c\u2019est en grande partie le tourisme qui les fait vivre, et la jeunesse d\u2019aujourd\u2019hui ne souhaite pas b\u00e2tir son avenir sur une petite \u00eele du lac. L\u2019avenir de ces \u00eeles est donc en p\u00e9ril et bient\u00f4t, les habitants seront uniquement des personnes au service du tourisme du pays. Durant la visite, l\u2019atmosph\u00e8re \u00e9tait donc \u00e9trange, \u00e0 mon sens; nous ressentions vraiment que les touristes \u00e9taient indispensables aux Aymaras d\u2019Uros. M\u00eame si cette visite a \u00e9t\u00e9 une exp\u00e9rience incroyable et in\u00e9dite pour moi, ce c\u00f4t\u00e9 tr\u00e8s planifi\u00e9 et surfait estompait toute l\u2019authenticit\u00e9 de la tradition.<\/p>\n

\"Lac

Le Lac Titicaca<\/p><\/div>\n

Nous avons continu\u00e9 notre route en direction de Taquile, une \u00eele naturelle d\u2019un kilom\u00e8tre et demi. L\u2019ambiance y est diff\u00e9rente que sur les \u00eeles Uros, car les habitants ne vivent pas que du tourisme, mais aussi de l\u2019agriculture. De plus, Taquile est organis\u00e9e politiquement et g\u00e9ographiquement avec un village principal situ\u00e9 au point culminant de l\u2019\u00eele. Ce n\u2019est pas le cas \u00e0 Uros, o\u00f9 les habitants vivent en communaut\u00e9s et o\u00f9 le chef d\u2019un \u00eelot change chaque ann\u00e9e. Le lac Titicaca n\u2019est donc pas seulement une grande \u00e9tendue d\u2019eau: il regorge de diversit\u00e9 culturelle et traditionnelle et fait partie des l\u00e9gendes portant sur la cr\u00e9ation du monde et des civilisations.<\/p>\n

En effet, dans la culture inca, le dieu cr\u00e9ateur Viracocha aurait surgi du lac Titicaca pour cr\u00e9er le Soleil, la Lune, l\u2019eau et les premiers hommes. D\u2019autres l\u00e9gendes racontent que Manco Capac et Mama Ocllo, les enfants du Dieu Soleil (Inti), seraient n\u00e9s du lac et envoy\u00e9s sur Terre afin d\u2019amener la civilisation aux \u00eatres humains. Ensemble, ils auraient fond\u00e9 la capitale nomm\u00e9e Cuzco, qui signifie \u00abcentre du monde\u00bb en quechua, et la civilisation inca qui s\u2019est d\u00e9velopp\u00e9e par la suite. Il est difficile de d\u00e9terminer la provenance de ces mythes au vu de la raret\u00e9 des sources \u00e9crites des civilisations pr\u00e9colombiennes. L\u2019une des seules sources qui nous ont \u00e9t\u00e9 transmises est le livre d\u2019Inca Garcilaso de la Vega, \u00e9crivain du XVIth<\/sup> si\u00e8cle relatant l\u2019histoire du P\u00e9rou et surtout celle des Incas.<\/p>\n

La suite logique du voyage a donc \u00e9t\u00e9 Cuzco, la derni\u00e8re \u00e9tape de notre p\u00e9riple. La r\u00e9gion de Cuzco est riche en histoire, en art et elle recelle de surprenants paysages. En effet, la ville est situ\u00e9e \u00e0 3400 m\u00e8tres d\u2019altitude, alors qu\u2019\u00e0 une centaine de kilom\u00e8tres de l\u00e0, une montagne multicolore nomm\u00e9e Vinicunca atteint les 5200 m\u00e8tres. Celle-ci me semblait encore peu pris\u00e9e par les touristes. Mais je me trompais. Trois \u00e0 quatre heures de bus depuis Cuzco ont \u00e9t\u00e9 n\u00e9cessaires pour parvenir au point de d\u00e9part du trek. A ma grande surprise, plusieurs centaines de touristes de tous les \u00e2ges et toutes les nationalit\u00e9s s\u2019appr\u00eataient \u00e0 d\u00e9marrer l\u2019ascension de 800 m\u00e8tres de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9e.<\/p>\n

\"Vinicunca\"

Le sommet Vinicunca<\/p><\/div>\n

Nous avons commenc\u00e9 la mont\u00e9e et ma respiration s\u2019est faite de plus en plus difficile. Le panorama \u00e9tait lui aussi \u00e0 couper le souffle, car plus nous nous approchions du but, plus nous voyions la roche des montagnes rougir. Nous avons aper\u00e7u de nombreux troupeaux d\u2019alpagas, des animaux semblables aux lamas, mais avec un pelage plus \u00e9pais et doux utilis\u00e9 pour le tissage et la confection de v\u00eatements. Cette laine reste encore abordable pour une majeure partie de la population, contrairement \u00e0 la laine de vigogne qui est plus rare et donc plus pris\u00e9e par les classes sociales sup\u00e9rieures. Lorsque nous avons aper\u00e7u les derniers cent m\u00e8tres tr\u00e8s ardus, la temp\u00e9rature n\u2019a cess\u00e9 de baisser alors que le ciel, lui, n\u2019a fait aucune ombre au Soleil.<\/p>\n

A 5200 m\u00e8tres, la vue \u00e9tait spectaculaire. Vinicunca comporte plusieurs couleurs, normalement sept, dont du bleu, du rouge, du vert, du jaune et d\u2019autre nuances que je ne parviens pas \u00e0 d\u00e9crire. Un glacier se tenait face aux montagnes color\u00e9es, semblant presque irr\u00e9el, car si diff\u00e9rent du reste de cet environnement. C\u2019est la chose la plus \u00e9tonnante au P\u00e9rou: en l\u2019espace de trois semaines, nous avons travers\u00e9 des paysages d\u00e9sertiques du c\u00f4t\u00e9 de Lima et Nazca, le d\u00e9but de la Cordill\u00e8re des Andes \u00e0 Arequipa, puis le haut-plateau de Puno et finalement les montagnes et les coins semi-tropicaux dans la r\u00e9gion de Cuzco. Cette derni\u00e8re \u00e9tape s\u2019est d\u00e9roul\u00e9e durant un trek de cinq jours pour rejoindre le Machu Picchu, l\u2019antique cit\u00e9 des Incas.<\/p>\n

Nous avons d\u00e9but\u00e9 le trek dans un milieu passablement bois\u00e9, mais tr\u00e8s sec et l\u2019air s\u2019est rafra\u00eechi lorsque nous nous sommes approch\u00e9s de la montagne Salkantay, l\u2019un des sommets les plus hauts de la Cordill\u00e8re des Andes avec ses 6271 m\u00e8tres d\u2019altitude. Nous \u00e9tions environ vingt personnes dans un groupe portant le nom de \u00abChasquis\u00bb, r\u00e9f\u00e9rence aux messagers incas qui couraient huit kilom\u00e8tres par jour tout en se relayant sur le chemin. Alors que nous nous dirigions vers le mont Salkantay, le chemin est devenu tr\u00e8s rocailleux et les paysages faibles en v\u00e9g\u00e9tation. En revanche, une fois le col franchi et le point des 4600 m\u00e8tres atteint, nous sommes redescendus entour\u00e9s de la selva alta<\/em>, une zone de transition semi-tropicale avec une v\u00e9g\u00e9tation dense juste avant la for\u00eat amazonienne.<\/p>\n

Finalement, apr\u00e8s quatre jours de marche, nous avons atteint le Machu Picchu, l\u2019une des sept merveilles du monde. Ce site antique a \u00e9t\u00e9 d\u00e9couvert en 1911 par un explorateur et historien am\u00e9ricain du nom d\u2019Hiram Bingham. M\u00eame s\u2019il n\u2019est pas l\u2019unique homme \u00e0 avoir travers\u00e9 ces ruines, Hiram Bingham fut le premier \u00e0 engager des \u00e9tudes s\u00e9rieuses sur le site. A l\u2019heure actuelle, on ne conna\u00eet toujours pas la raison exacte pour laquelle cette cit\u00e9 antique a \u00e9t\u00e9 construite. On sait, par contre, qu\u2019elle a s\u00fbrement \u00e9t\u00e9 \u00e9difi\u00e9e durant le r\u00e8gne du neuvi\u00e8me empereur inca Pachacutec, autour de 1440 ou 1450. Cette cit\u00e9 demeure encore un myst\u00e8re notamment dans sa construction, car le site est \u00e0 plus de 2400 m\u00e8tres d\u2019altitude et les pierres qui y sont dispos\u00e9es sont tr\u00e8s grandes.<\/p>\n

\"Machu

Le Macchu Picchu<\/p><\/div>\n

De plus, le site est difficile d\u2019acc\u00e8s et il faudrait une force et une volont\u00e9 presque surhumaines pour parvenir au Machu Picchu avec d\u2019\u00e9normes morceaux de pierre. Pourtant, les Incas l\u2019ont fait. Certaines th\u00e9ories disent que le Machu Picchu \u00e9tait le Versailles de Cuzco, c\u2019est-\u00e0-dire une demeure \u00e9loign\u00e9e du centre politique o\u00f9 pouvait s\u00e9journer la famille imp\u00e9riale. Cette cit\u00e9 \u00e9loign\u00e9e du centre \u00e9tait une vraie petite ville, avec ses temples, ses terrasses agricoles, ses habitations, sa fronti\u00e8re et m\u00eame son cimeti\u00e8re. C\u2019est gr\u00e2ce aux objets, aux squelettes et aux inscriptions trouv\u00e9es sur le site que les arch\u00e9ologues ont pu d\u00e9crypter la vie que menaient les Incas et leurs sujets. D\u2019ailleurs, selon les squelettes et les v\u00eatements retrouv\u00e9s, les habitants de la cit\u00e9 \u00e9taient pour la plupart des personnes ais\u00e9es, bien nourries et sans s\u00e9quelles de combat.<\/p>\n

Le P\u00e9rou n\u2019a jamais connu de famine, la richesse de son environnement lui permettant de cultiver des sortes vari\u00e9es d\u2019aliments durant toute l\u2019ann\u00e9e. Les cultures en terrasse, comme celles pr\u00e9sentes \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9poque sur le Machu Picchu, favorisaient cette fertilit\u00e9. Il est amusant de noter que \u00abMachu Picchu\u00bb (\u00abvieille montagne\u00bb en quechua) n\u2019est pas le vrai nom du site, mais celui d\u2019une des montagnes qui le borde. Il n\u2019existe en effet aucune source permettant de d\u00e9terminer son nom originel.<\/p>\n

Cette myst\u00e9rieuse cit\u00e9 antique a marqu\u00e9 la fin de notre voyage \u00e0 l\u2019autre bout du monde. Lorsque l\u2019heure est venue de prendre l\u2019avion pour rejoindre la Suisse, j\u2019ai eu un petit pincement au c\u0153ur, car le P\u00e9rou m\u2019a montr\u00e9 une autre histoire, bien diff\u00e9rente de celle de l\u2019Ancien Monde. Une histoire qui lui est propre et qui lie la culture originelle andine \u00e0 celle que les conquistadors ont amen\u00e9e il y a plus de 500 ans. C\u2019est un \u00e9trange \u00e9quilibre, une sorte de \u00abyin et yang\u00bb qui se retrouve aussi bien au niveau culturel que naturel. Les oppos\u00e9s, comme les environnements et les cultures divergents, cohabitent et constituent un tout authentique qui, au final, m\u2019a fait me sentir un peu chez moi.<\/p>\n

Write to the author: marina.detoro@bluewin.ch<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

Cr\u00e9dits photos: \u00a9 Marina De Toro, pour Le Regard Libre<\/em><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Le Regard Libre N\u00b0 22 – Marina De Toro \u00abMon dernier voyage, sous forme de r\u00e9cit et de photographies. Episode…<\/p>","protected":false},"author":17,"featured_media":12467,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2597],"tags":[18415257,43033,4241817,622634,24257316,22376525,1906183,169956425,1076911,5314706,48708891,24258742,476546,5422044,193092,787075,31526,329036,8200003,8200002,773986,10222532,32118,329033,53974,26481741,5574993,2119027,289561,926588,362945414,5992380],"class_list":["post-12451","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-voyage","tag-alpagas","tag-arequipa","tag-aymaras","tag-bolivie","tag-canyon-de-colca","tag-chasquis","tag-cordillere-des-andes","tag-culture-inca","tag-cuzco","tag-hiram-bingham","tag-ile-de-taquile","tag-iles-uros","tag-inca","tag-inca-garcilaso-de-la-vega","tag-incas","tag-inti","tag-lima","tag-machu-picchu","tag-mama-ocllo","tag-manco-capac","tag-nazca","tag-pachacutec","tag-perou","tag-puno","tag-quechua","tag-selva-alta","tag-taquile","tag-totora","tag-trek","tag-uros","tag-vinicunca","tag-viracocha"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nP\u00e9rou 2017: Lac Titicaca et Cuzco<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/leregardlibre.com\/en\/travel\/perou-2017-lac-titicaca-et-cuzco\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"P\u00e9rou 2017: Lac Titicaca et Cuzco\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Le Regard Libre N\u00b0 22 - Marina De Toro \u00abMon dernier voyage, sous forme de r\u00e9cit et de photographies. 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