{"id":13363,"date":"2017-11-25T18:00:08","date_gmt":"2017-11-25T17:00:08","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/leregardlibre.com\/?p=13363"},"modified":"2023-09-22T17:30:28","modified_gmt":"2023-09-22T15:30:28","slug":"louzbekistan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/leregardlibre.com\/en\/travel\/louzbekistan\/","title":{"rendered":"Uzbekistan"},"content":{"rendered":"

Le Regard Libre N\u00b0 33 - Baptiste Michellod<\/em><\/p>\n

Samarkand, Bukhara, Merv, Balkh. So many names whose mere mention has the gift of taking the reader on a journey. These places, currently part of Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and Afghanistan, are grouped together under the name Transoxiana. Transoxiane refers to all the lands beyond the Oxus River, the ancient name of the Amou Darya. The territory was successively located on the borders of the Persian, Hellenic, Arab and Russian empires. Even distant China coveted Transoxiana, attempting to seize it in the 8th century.th<\/sup> century AD, shortly after the Arab conquests. The Battle of Talas, won by the Arabs in 751, put an end to both Chinese expansion to the West and Arab conquests to the East, and turned Central Asia definitively towards the Islamic world.<\/p>\n

Now overwhelmingly Muslim, Transoxiana is also home to Christian and Jewish communities. Originally a land of frontiers, Transoxiana became a land of trade as trade routes developed between India, China and the Mediterranean world. The country is also dotted with Greek, Zoroastrian, Buddhist and Hindu relics. Many civilizations have influenced each other here.<\/p>\n

Ainsi, en arrivant du monde indien par les routes commerciales, le bouddhisme s\u2019implante dans la r\u00e9gion, et se m\u00e9lange \u00e0 la culture grecque. Selon certains historiens, c\u2019est en s\u2019inspirant des repr\u00e9sentation hell\u00e9niques d\u2019Apollon que les bouddhistes ont commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 repr\u00e9senter le Buddha sous forme de statue. Gr\u00e2ce aux \u00e9changes commerciaux, le bouddhisme ainsi transfigur\u00e9 prend la route de l\u2019Extr\u00eame-Orient.<\/p>\n

Comme ce rapide expos\u00e9 le montre, la Transoxiane s\u2019apparente \u00e0 un espace de contact entre les grandes civilisations eurasiatiques. Cependant, il est aussi int\u00e9ressant de la repr\u00e9senter au centre de cet espace infini. Quelle perspective peut-on projeter depuis la Transoxiane vers les mondes m\u00e9diterran\u00e9ens et asiatiques\u00a0? Avant de poursuivre ce propos, il est n\u00e9cessaire de se repr\u00e9senter cette r\u00e9gion somme toute peu connue.<\/p>\n

Tracez sur le sable deux courbes irr\u00e9guli\u00e8res, courant de l\u2019Est vers l\u2019Ouest : ce sont les deux grands fleuves centre-asiatiques, l\u2019Amou Darya (ou Oxus) au Sud et le Syr Darya au Nord. Erigez la cha\u00eene montagneuse du Pamir \u00e0 la source de ces deux courants, et creusez le sable \u00e0 l\u2019Ouest pour y former la mer d\u2019Aral. Cr\u00e9ez \u00e7\u00e0 et l\u00e0 quelques dunes pour donner du relief au d\u00e9sert Kyzl Koum (litt\u00e9ralement \u00ab\u00a0sable rouge\u00a0\u00bb), qui s\u2019\u00e9tale dans l\u2019Ouest de la r\u00e9gion jusqu\u2019\u00e0 la mer d\u2019Aral. Ajoutez finalement de la verdure tout au long de l\u2019Amou Darya et du Syr Darya, et vous aurez ainsi une repr\u00e9sentation simplifi\u00e9e de la Transoxiane.<\/p>\n

Cet \u00e9crin d\u2019oasis, v\u00e9ritable M\u00e9sopotamie centre-asiatique, est le berceau de soci\u00e9t\u00e9s s\u00e9dentaires mill\u00e9naires. A l\u2019Est, les\u00a0sommets du Tian Chan et du Pamir s\u00e9parent, du haut de leur 7000 m\u00e8tres, l\u2019Asie Centrale du monde chinois. Ces obstacles naturels ont \u00e9t\u00e9 brav\u00e9s par des marchands il y a plus de trois mill\u00e9naires d\u00e9j\u00e0, comme l\u2019attestent plusieurs sites arch\u00e9ologiques.<\/p>\n

A la fronti\u00e8re Nord s\u2019\u00e9tale la steppe kazakhe, qui se prolonge jusqu\u2019au cercle polaire. Les grands envahisseurs mongols d\u00e9ferl\u00e8rent sur l\u2019Europe \u00e0 travers ces plaines, qui furent ironiquement le p\u00e2turage des premiers chevaux dress\u00e9s par l\u2019homme. Les plaines d\u00e9sertiques du Sud-Ouest sont hant\u00e9es par de belliqueuses tribus nomades. En poussant plus loin \u00e0 l\u2019Ouest, les plateaux font place \u00e0 la mer Caspienne, qui marque la fronti\u00e8re physique entre l\u2019Europe et l\u2019Asie. Si vous observez sur une carte le territoire que je vous ai d\u00e9crit, vous constaterez qu\u2019il s\u2019agit d\u2019un espace vaste que l\u2019on a tendance \u00e0 sous-estimer.<\/p>\n

Bord\u00e9s par des d\u00e9serts arides, des montagnes inhospitali\u00e8res et des steppes habit\u00e9es par de terribles tribus nomades, les habitants de la Transoxiane se sont rapidement regroup\u00e9s dans des enceintes fortifi\u00e9es pour r\u00e9sister aux envahisseurs. Tandis que la rudesse de l\u2019environnement encourage une urbanisation pr\u00e9coce, la situation g\u00e9ographique favorise la cr\u00e9ation de routes marchandes entre les mondes indiens, chinois et persans.<\/p>\n

Durant mon p\u00e9riple de cet \u00e9t\u00e9 en Asie Centrale, j\u2019ai visit\u00e9 trois \u00e9tapes majeures des routes commerciales eurasiennes\u00a0: Samarcande, Boukhara et Khiva. Toutes trois m\u00e9ritent un bref r\u00e9cit.<\/p>\n

Samarcande, qui a f\u00eat\u00e9 r\u00e9cemment ses 2700\u00a0ans, est l\u2019une des villes pouvant rivaliser en \u00e2ge avec Rome. Cette cit\u00e9 a constitu\u00e9, du fait de sa position centrale, une \u00e9tape immanquable des routes commerciales. Elle conna\u00eet un d\u00e9veloppement majeur durant l\u2019antiquit\u00e9 et le d\u00e9but de l\u2019\u00e9poque islamique, avant d\u2019\u00eatre r\u00e9duite en cendre comme toutes les villes de la r\u00e9gion durant l\u2019invasion mongole. Telle le ph\u00e9nix, Samarcande rena\u00eet de ses cendres au XIVth<\/sup> si\u00e8cle, sous le r\u00e8gne de l\u2019impitoyable Tamerlan.<\/p>\n

Tamerlan, ou Amir Timur en langue ouzb\u00e8ke (litt\u00e9ralement \u00ab\u00a0le seigneur d\u2019airain\u00a0\u00bb) , est le fondateur de l\u2019Empire Timouride. Il na\u00eet en 1336 dans l\u2019actuel Ouzb\u00e9kistan. Apr\u00e8s avoir mis sous son joug les tribus voisines, Tamerlan passe une grande partie de sa vie sur les champs de bataille. Il remporte des victoires notoires \u00e0 Bagdad, Kerbala, Ankara, Eph\u00e8se, et se taille ainsi un empire \u00e0 cheval entre l\u2019Asie et l\u2019Europe. Il pousse \u00e9galement ses conqu\u00eates dans le monde indien, et s\u2019empare de Delhi en 1389. Il extermine presque syst\u00e9matiquement les civils, et d\u00e9porte les savants et les artisans \u00e0 sa capitale, Sarmakand.<\/p>\n

\"Mosque\u0301e

Mosqu\u00e9e Bibi Khanoum, Samarcande<\/p><\/div>\n

De fabuleuses richesses sont assembl\u00e9es dans cette ville qui repr\u00e9sente le c\u0153ur de son empire. Samarkand devient un centre culturel et artistique incontournable. S\u2019il est cruel avec les peuples conquis, Tamerlan se r\u00e9v\u00e8le \u00eatre \u00e9galement un m\u00e9c\u00e8ne tr\u00e8s g\u00e9n\u00e9reux. Les splendides \u00e9coles coraniques et mosqu\u00e9es b\u00e2ties sous son r\u00e8gne en t\u00e9moignent. Tamerlan d\u00e9c\u00e8de finalement en chemin pour la conqu\u00eate de la Chine.<\/p>\n

Ulugh Beg, quant \u00e0 lui, est l\u2019un des petit-fils de Tamerlan. Bien que promis \u00e0 une carri\u00e8re guerri\u00e8re, le jeune Ulugh Beg se d\u00e9sint\u00e9resse bien vite des affaires militaires, et se consacre \u00e0 la science, notamment l\u2019astronomie. Il devient un m\u00e9c\u00e8ne des sciences, et invite \u00e0 sa cour les savants les plus renomm\u00e9s du monde islamique. Ulugh Beg est connu pour ses recherches avant-gardistes en astronomie. Il b\u00e2tit un observatoire astronomique muni d\u2019un sextant de plus de cinquante m\u00e8tres de long, gr\u00e2ce auquel il enregistre la position de plusieurs milliers d\u2019\u00e9toiles. Son int\u00e9r\u00eat pour la science lui vaut cependant des ennemis parmi les religieux. Quelques ann\u00e9es apr\u00e8s la mort de son grand-p\u00e8re Tamerlan, Ulugh Beg est assassin\u00e9 par son propre fils, \u00e0 la t\u00eate d\u2019une conjuration religieuse. Sa mort, si elle marque le d\u00e9but d\u2019une p\u00e9riode obscurantiste dans la r\u00e9gion, n\u2019a pas pu emp\u00eacher la propagation de ses \u00e9crits qui contribuent \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e2ge d\u2019or des sciences islamiques du Moyen \u00c2ge. Poursuivons notre p\u00e9riple sur la Route de la Soie, en direction de Boukhara.<\/p>\n

Boukhara est non seulement une \u00e9tape commerciale majeure, mais \u00e9galement un centre religieux et scientifique de renom. La ville est connue pour ses 365 mosqu\u00e9es et ses nombreuses \u00e9coles coraniques. Elle est en outre le lieu de naissance du grand savant Avicenne. A la fin du premier mill\u00e9naire, Boukhara devient la capitale de l\u2019empire Samanide. Sa r\u00e9putation a atteint un tel niveau au XIth<\/sup> si\u00e8cle qu\u2019elle devient un lieu de p\u00e8lerinage. On consid\u00e9rait alors que deux p\u00e8lerinages \u00e0 Boukhara valaient \u00e0 un p\u00e8lerinage \u00e0 la Mecque.<\/p>\n

\"Bazar

Bazar de Boukhara<\/p><\/div>\n

Tout comme Samarcande, Boukhara est d\u00e9vast\u00e9e par les troupes de Gengis Khan. Le conqu\u00e9rant se livre au pillage et \u00e0 la destruction presque compl\u00e8te de la ville. Seul le minaret Kalon est \u00e9pargn\u00e9e par Gengis Khan. Homme des steppes peu vers\u00e9 dans l\u2019architecture, le guerrier aurait \u00e9t\u00e9 subjugu\u00e9 par la verticalit\u00e9 de l\u2019\u00e9difice (qui s\u2019\u00e9l\u00e8ve \u00e0 48 m\u00e8tres). Ce lieu devint un lieu d\u2019ex\u00e9cution et la pratique perdura jusqu\u2019au d\u00e9but du XXth<\/sup> si\u00e8cle. Malgr\u00e9 sa sombre histoire, le minaret Kalon est rest\u00e9 un symbole embl\u00e9matique de la ville de Boukhara. Suite \u00e0 la visite de cette ville l\u00e9gendaire, je me rendis \u00e0 travers le d\u00e9sert Kyzyl Koum jusqu\u2019\u00e0 une derni\u00e8re \u00e9tape, la ville de Khiva.<\/p>\n

Khiva aurait \u00e9t\u00e9 b\u00e2tie par le fils de No\u00e9, qui aurait trouv\u00e9 un puits au milieu du d\u00e9sert. La ville-oasis constituait le dernier arr\u00eat n\u00e9cessaire pour les caravanes venues d\u2019Orient \u00e0 travers le d\u00e9sert de Kyzyl Koum. Malgr\u00e9 son statut p\u00e9riph\u00e9rique, la ville de Khiva a donn\u00e9 naissance \u00e0 un savant de renom, Al-Kharizmi, auquel on doit entre autres les termes \u00ab\u00a0algorithme\u00a0\u00bb et \u00ab\u00a0alg\u00e8bre\u00a0\u00bb. Du point de vue architectural, Khiva repr\u00e9sente une unit\u00e9 in\u00e9gal\u00e9e dans toute l\u2019Asie Centrale. Le coeur de la ville, l\u2019\u00ab\u00a0Itchan Kala\u00a0\u00bb, est un complexe historique entour\u00e9 de plusieurs kilom\u00e8tres de muraille. Les b\u00e2timents \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur ont \u00e9t\u00e9 parfaitement conserv\u00e9s et pr\u00e9sentent une unit\u00e9 tout \u00e0 fait remarquable. Le visiteur qui quitte les quelques quartiers touristiques et d\u00e9ambule dans ses ruelles en pis\u00e9 se retrouve bien vite perdu \u00e0 travers les si\u00e8cles.<\/p>\n

Ce bref expos\u00e9 m\u2019a \u00e9t\u00e9 inspir\u00e9 par mon r\u00e9cent voyage en Asie Centrale. Mon but \u2013 j\u2019esp\u00e8re qu\u2019il a \u00e9t\u00e9 compris \u2013 n\u2019\u00e9tait pas de vouloir r\u00e9\u00e9crire l\u2019histoire en faisant de cette r\u00e9gion le noyau des civilisations eurasiatiques. J\u2019ai voulu d\u00e9montrer que ces terres, dont on parle si peu dans nos cours d\u2019histoire ou de g\u00e9ographie, sont impr\u00e9gn\u00e9es d\u2019une histoire mill\u00e9naire et qu\u2019elles rev\u00eatent une importance capitale dans les \u00e9changes culturels entre les civilisations et dans les d\u00e9couvertes scientifiques m\u00e9di\u00e9vales. Bien que les proc\u00e9dures d\u2019obtention de visa soient toujours compliqu\u00e9es pour rentrer en Ouzb\u00e9kistan, je ne peux que vous conseiller ce pays o\u00f9 tant d\u2019empires et de civilisations se sont entrem\u00eal\u00e9s durant l\u2019histoire.<\/p>\n

Write to the author : Baptiste.Michellod@etu.unige.ch<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

Cr\u00e9dits photos : Baptiste Michellod<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Le Regard Libre N\u00b0 33 – Baptiste Michellod Samarcande, Bukhara, Merv, Balkh. Autant de noms dont la simple \u00e9vocation a…<\/p>","protected":false},"author":615,"featured_media":13367,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2597],"tags":[4338,597554832,401192,583885954,505074,597554831,1590304,1028487,14011905,2151811,162317],"class_list":["post-13363","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-voyage","tag-afghanistan","tag-amou-darya","tag-balkh","tag-baptiste-michellod","tag-bukhara","tag-fleuve-oxus","tag-merv","tag-ouzbekistan","tag-oxus","tag-samarcande","tag-turkmenistan"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nL\u2019Ouzb\u00e9kistan<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/leregardlibre.com\/en\/travel\/louzbekistan\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"L\u2019Ouzb\u00e9kistan\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Le Regard Libre N\u00b0 33 - Baptiste Michellod Samarcande, Bukhara, Merv, Balkh. 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