{"id":17143,"date":"2018-09-29T19:21:37","date_gmt":"2018-09-29T17:21:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/leregardlibre.com\/?p=17143"},"modified":"2026-02-08T20:34:18","modified_gmt":"2026-02-08T19:34:18","slug":"discussion-with-sandro-pagliari-first-prize-winner-at-montreux-moda-2018","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/leregardlibre.com\/en\/company\/discussion-with-sandro-pagliari-first-prize-winner-at-montreux-moda-2018\/","title":{"rendered":"Discussion with Sandro Pagliari, first prize winner at Montreux Moda 2018"},"content":{"rendered":"

Le Regard Libre N\u00b0 42 - H\u00e9l\u00e8ne Lavoyer<\/em><\/p>\n

After running a hairdressing salon for several years in his native Jura, Sandro Pagliari set out to pursue a lifelong dream of entering the world of fashion as a designer. Last May, he won first prize in the fourth edition of the <\/em>Montreux Moda, a competition organized by Giovanni Lo Presti, aimed at projecting Switzerland's creative potential in fashion onto the world stage. On a terrace in Neuch\u00e2tel, we discussed his world and his vision.<\/em><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

H\u00e9l\u00e8ne Lavoyer\u00a0: Comment \u00eates-vous arriv\u00e9 jusqu\u2019\u00e0 une participation au Montreux Moda<\/i> ?<\/b><\/p>\n

Sandro Pagliari\u00a0: Mon parcours professionnel a d\u00e9but\u00e9 par un apprentissage de coiffeur, pendant lequel j\u2019ai fait beaucoup de concours internationaux avant d\u2019ouvrir mon propre salon. Comme je n\u2019aime pas me cantonner au strict minimum du travail traditionnel, j\u2019ai continu\u00e9 les prises de photos coiffure, fait des exp\u00e9riences de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la cam\u00e9ra en tant que mod\u00e8le. Apr\u00e8s sept ans dans le salon de coiffure, j\u2019ai entrepris une nouvelle formation, pour ensuite me rendre compte que je devais faire ce qui me plaisait malgr\u00e9 les a priori<\/i> li\u00e9s au domaine de la mode si je voulais laisser une empreinte plus forte, et cr\u00e9er quelque chose de plus concret.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Comment s\u2019est d\u00e9roul\u00e9 le concours ?\u00a0<\/span><\/b><\/p>\n

Il y avait \u00e9norm\u00e9ment de stress et d\u2019effervescence durant la pr\u00e9paration en coulisses. C\u2019est toujours bourr\u00e9 d\u2019impr\u00e9vus \u00e0 g\u00e9rer, il y a les derni\u00e8res retouches sur des mannequins que l\u2019on a rencontr\u00e9s le jour-m\u00eame, auxquelles il faut adapter le v\u00eatement pour qu\u2019il convienne \u00e0 leurs morphologies et que chacune soit mise en valeur.<\/p>\n

Visit Montreux Moda<\/i> est un \u00e9v\u00e9nement soutenu par de grands noms de la mode \u2013 New York Fashion Week<\/i>, Montreux Riviera<\/i>, Plan\u00e8te Suisse<\/i> \u2013 et le slogan est : \u00ab Ensemble soutenons le d\u00e9veloppement artistique Suisse \u00bb. A-t-il particuli\u00e8rement besoin d\u2019\u00eatre soutenu en Suisse ?<\/b><\/p>\n

C\u2019est certain. La Suisse est connue pour \u00eatre un pays technique, mais le c\u00f4t\u00e9 artistique n\u2019est selon moi pas du tout mis en valeur, alors qu\u2019il y a toujours plus de jeunes cr\u00e9ateurs suisses, qu\u2019ils soient stylistes, maquilleurs ou cr\u00e9ateurs, qui ont \u00e9norm\u00e9ment de potentiel et de savoir-faire mais dont le domaine n\u2019est pas r\u00e9ellement reconnu.<\/p>\n

Nous avons pourtant de grandes \u00e9coles d\u2019art qui offrent une formation de styliste ou de designer mode<\/i>, telles que la HEAD ou l\u2019EAA.<\/b><\/p>\n

Oui. Cependant, bon nombre de dipl\u00f4m\u00e9s s\u2019expatrient \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9tranger parce qu\u2019il n\u2019y a pas \u00e9norm\u00e9ment de possibilit\u00e9s pour vivre de la mode. Bien s\u00fbr, cela permet de travailler pour de grands noms de la sc\u00e8ne mode mondiale ; cela emp\u00eache cependant d\u2019\u00eatre reconnu pour ses propres cr\u00e9ations. Ce fonctionnement n\u2019attire pas non plus le regard sur la sc\u00e8ne mode suisse. Ce que j\u2019appr\u00e9cie dans le Montreux Moda<\/i>, c\u2019est cette volont\u00e9 de mettre en valeur le Swiss made<\/i>, le savoir-faire r\u00e9gional \u00e0 un niveau national.<\/p>\n

La collection que vous avez pr\u00e9sent\u00e9e au Montreux Moda<\/i> s\u2019intitule CHIMERA<\/i> : quel est son essence, son message et les inspirations qui vous y ont amen\u00e9 ?<\/b><\/p>\n

C\u2019est une collection n\u00e9e d\u2019un m\u00e9lange entre le pr\u00e9sent, le futur et le pass\u00e9. Je me suis beaucoup inspir\u00e9 des cultures anciennes de la Cordill\u00e8re des Andes, avec une vision plus futuriste par rapport au design<\/i> des v\u00eatements et \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9nergie dans laquelle ils ont \u00e9t\u00e9 fa\u00e7onn\u00e9s. Ce sont des v\u00eatements d\u00e9construits et reconstruits, au niveau des mati\u00e8res utilis\u00e9es \u00e9galement, car j\u2019ai voulu garder la maille ou le lainage qui sont anciennes et proches de la terre, avec des mati\u00e8res plus brutes comme le jean et le cuir, qui repr\u00e9sentent bien notre \u00e9poque contemporaine.<\/p>\n

Notre monde occidental actuel, l\u2019aimez-vous ?<\/b><\/p>\n

Je pense que l\u2019actuelle situation du monde, comme le futur qui en d\u00e9coulera, manquent de cette base concr\u00e8te et solide qui existait dans le pass\u00e9. Beaucoup d\u2019artistes qui \u00e9mergent aujourd\u2019hui durent moins longtemps, ils sont peut-\u00eatre plus provocateurs dans leurs cr\u00e9ations mais communiquent un message moins profond. Les \u00ab Grands \u00bb appartiennent au pass\u00e9, et bien qu\u2019il soit beau de voir le c\u00f4t\u00e9 \u00e9ph\u00e9m\u00e8re et fr\u00e9n\u00e9tique du pr\u00e9sent, j\u2019ai besoin de cette profondeur et de raisons, de messages qui appuient mon travail au lieu de simplement le proposer \u00e0 la consommation.<\/p>\n

Vous avez une impression de perte des valeurs dans nos soci\u00e9t\u00e9s ?<\/b><\/p>\n

Les valeurs sont propres \u00e0 chacun\u00a0: les miennes ne sont pas les v\u00f4tres, en tout cas dans leur application. Je pr\u00e9f\u00e8re au terme de valeur celui de profondeur. Et l\u00e0, \u00e0 mon sens, cette profondeur et la recherche int\u00e9rieure qui va avec se perdent aujourd\u2019hui.<\/p>\n

Un attrait ind\u00e9niable se constate chez les jeunes adultes pour de grandes marques telles que Dior, Balenciaga, Gucci ou VETEMENTS. Les marques de pr\u00eat-\u00e0-porter s\u2019imitent donc entre elles afin de r\u00e9pondre \u00e0 une demande croissante. Cette accessibilit\u00e9 ne sonne-t-elle pas la fin de la particularit\u00e9 de leurs cr\u00e9ations\u00a0?<\/b><\/p>\n

On ne peut pas emp\u00eacher les grandes surfaces et autres grandes cha\u00eenes de reprendre les id\u00e9es de cr\u00e9ateurs. C\u2019est in\u00e9vitable. J\u2019\u00e9voquais avant la profondeur justement parce qu\u2019avec une identit\u00e9 forte, la contrefa\u00e7on et l\u2019imitation ne contrebalanceront jamais le v\u00eatement initial. De plus, la qualit\u00e9 des v\u00eatements et des chaussures est ind\u00e9niablement diff\u00e9rente. Je pense aussi que la personne qui va porter la pi\u00e8ce y apporte quelque chose. Si je choisis un cr\u00e9ateur et que j\u2019adh\u00e8re \u00e0 son message, l\u2019image sera plus forte que si le motif est simplement la poursuite d\u2019une tendance.<\/p>\n

Vers quels horizons le Montreux Moda vous aura-t-il permis de vous projeter ?<\/b><\/p>\n

J\u2019ai eu beaucoup de retomb\u00e9es gr\u00e2ce au concours. Je suis parti tout le mois de juillet \u00e0 Milan, afin d\u2019int\u00e9grer une formation d\u2019un mois \u00e0 mon cursus, et la participation \u00e0 la Fashion Week<\/i> de New York en 2019, qui est v\u00e9ritablement le grand prix de Montreux Moda<\/i>.<\/p>\n

Write to the author : helene.lavoyer@leregardlibre.com<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

Cr\u00e9dit photo : \u00a9\u00a0Jordi Teres<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Le Regard Libre N\u00b0 42\u00a0\u2013 H\u00e9l\u00e8ne Lavoyer Apr\u00e8s avoir tenu un salon de coiffure pendant quelques ann\u00e9es dans son Jura…<\/p>","protected":false},"author":326,"featured_media":17144,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8796],"tags":[11788,42231,644339888,644339674,644339895],"class_list":["post-17143","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-societe","tag-interviews","tag-mode","tag-sandro-pagliari","tag-stylisme","tag-swiss-made"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nDiscussion avec Sandro Pagliari, premier prix du Montreux Moda 2018<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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