Microbrewery Fridays - Max Moeschler
A few years ago, beers of the Indian Pale Ale have established themselves as key players on the brewing scene, and are now recognized for their character and aromatic qualities, although for a long time they were shunned by supermarkets and bars because they were considered too bitter. Today, another long-forgotten type of beer seems to be making a comeback, and may well follow a similar path: sour beers, or sour ales.
Sour beers are one of the oldest types of beer, and yet one of the most misunderstood. Originating in Belgium, they rely on a unique brewing technique: spontaneous fermentation. Left in the open air, under very specific humidity and temperature conditions, the brew develops natural yeasts that gradually colonize the tanks, transforming sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide. This completely natural process requires time and optimal climatic conditions. Completely dependent on meteorological conditions, this method of fermentation has therefore remained a minority, even a confidential one, over the centuries. The result is generally a very distinctive, resolutely acidic beer, with little carbon dioxide and moderate alcohol content.
The result of this laborious process is called lambic. It comes in three forms: Gueuze, a blend of young and aged lambics, is the most classic in its category. Kriek, obtained by adding cherries to the brew, has become famous for its many sweetened versions. Faro, finally, includes candy sugar in the brewing process, giving it a sweeter taste akin to some ciders. This spontaneous fermentation, which is complicated to achieve, is not the only way to obtain an acidic beer, which can result from a more or less lengthy stay in a barrel (traditional lambics are generally also barrel-aged): the choice of barrel, its wood, its age and its previous contents (wine, malt, port, rum, etc.) allow for a very interesting refining of the aromas. The addition of certain fruits or lactic bacteria is also practiced, notably for the famous Berliner Weisse.
This type of beer, highly distinctive and far removed from the usual flavours, generally surprises on first tasting and, until now, seemed to be destined for a confidential and informed public. In Switzerland, it was the BFM brewery that began the rise of acid beers, with the famous, award-winning Saint Bon-Chien Abbey, a high-profile brewing experiment. Since then, and with the explosion of craft beers across the country and renewed interest in more original and daring products, many Swiss brewers have tried their hand at the exercise, with surprising results and prodigious diversity. Many connoisseurs have also praised the aromatic and gustatory appeal of sour beers, particularly as an accompaniment to meals. Finally, more and more beer bars are offering them, even on draught. As with Indian Pale Ales a few years ago, the resurrection seems well and truly underway.
Photo credit: ©️ Cantillon
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