Venice, medieval cradle of gentle commerce

I had come to celebrate my thirtieth birthday in the city of carnival. But behind the gondolas, I discovered an ancient republic built on water, order and trade. A precursor of free trade, more relevant than ever at a time of protectionist retreats.

In my postcard- and social networking-fueled imagination, Venice is all about peaceful canals, romantic alleyways, a Spritz in one hand and a gelato in the other. A city for lovers. But as I walk through the majestic halls of the Doge's Palace, everything - from the frescoes to the gilding to the sculptures - seems to be telling me a lesson in history.

In the 5th century A.D., as the Roman Empire completed its fall, the people of Veneto fled the barbarian invasions by isolating themselves in the lagoons. They planted stakes in the ground, fixed the clay