The Middle Kingdom, soon the beer Empire?

Microbrewery Fridays - Max Moeschler

Among the multitude of beer-producing countries, there are some whose age-old traditions have long since earned them worldwide renown. These include Belgium, Germany and England. Then there are countries such as Switzerland and the United States, where craft breweries are booming and growing in success and renown. During a recent trip, I had the pleasure of discovering a land whose brewing production, like many other aspects of the country, remains little-known on the Old Continent: China.

As soon as you land, the first thing you notice in your quest for malty flavors and other hoppy fantasies is that the Middle Kingdom is also the land of lager. Starting with the national beer, the most consumed beer in the world and one of the few to be vaguely distributed in Europe, the Tsing Tao. A thirst-quenching blond beer typical of Western industrial production, it is nonetheless pleasant on the palate, with a light but present bitterness.

With each province having its own brands, I had the opportunity to discover an interesting array of Chinese beers. However, it has to be said that many of these beers, although very thirst-quenching, immediately rank among the (very) light. At around 2.5% to 3% alcohol and with a taste that is sometimes barely perceptible, some of these beers would, in our latitudes, be better placed somewhere between Evian and Valser on the shelves. Chinese white, amber and brown beers are particularly rare commodities, with almost all the supply imported from Europe. 

Fortunately, some local beers have turned out to be much tastier and more interesting than the majority of industrial production. As in many other countries, craft breweries are slowly but surely coming into their own. Although the vastness of the country often makes them difficult to access, I was fortunate enough to discover in Beijing the Panda Eyes Red Honey Ale, a surprising red beer from the brewery Panda Brew. With its strong character and aromas of pine and honey, it has nothing to envy of European know-how. Another pleasant discovery is a restaurant in Yunnan province., in the south of the country, producing its own beer. It's somewhere between an amber and a red. wear British. While its particularly woody taste may come as a surprise, the balance that emerges afterwards and its generous foam make it the perfect accompaniment to a traditional meal.

While the phenomenon of microbreweries is still relatively confidential on a national scale, there's no doubt that in the near future they will be added to the already vast panorama of gastronomic and cultural riches that China has to offer. 

Write to the author: max.moeschler@leregardlibre.com

Photo credit: ©️ Panda Brew